Geneseo Brazil Project – Sunday Morning

I’m sitting on the fifth floor of the hotel in the lobby by the window with a cup of coffee.  The tree-tops outside the windows are right at the level of the window, and there are tiny monkeys moving around, or lounging in the tree.  This morning, some of the band members woke up to the sound of monkeys in the trees outside their room, screeching as they chased and played, argued over food, like we wake up to the sound of birds doing the same.  I’m distracted because while I’m writing I keep looking up and seeing seals rolling and diving in the surf about 40 or 50 yards from the rocky shore.  Among them are swimmers (humans) swimming parallel to the shore with marker floats attached to their backs.  They are followed by scuba divers with cameras.  The seals appear to think they’re playing with the divers and swimmers.  A little while ago, on man drug a little rowboat into the water and began rowing out into the ocean on a diagonal path until he was out of my view.  It the ocean.  Where the heck is he going?

Last night the end of the summer festival was amazing.  I will try to find out the name of this event.  Maybe you can google it and see some pictures of the setting.  There was a long street parallel to the beach with a 12ish foot concrete wall and occasional stairs down to the beach.  This is a stretch of the street and beach that is one of the epicenters of the world famous Carnivale, which occurred last month.  There is one huge stage out at the end of the beach, but up high at the level of the street.  Big time concert stage with stadium sound and lights.  The second stage is out in the water, maybe about 100 yards out.  A floating stage, also with big time sound and lights, although smaller than the other stage.  Live music alternated between these two stages all day.  When we arrived, there was a large group on the big stage.  There are numerous projection screens at the street level and on the beach, about 15′ by 20′, with a close up of the performing group, and supplementary sound equipment providing the music throughout the distance of the beach and street area.  The whole scene was probably a quarter mile in length.  Thousands and thousands of people.

The next group played on the water stage.  They were called Orkestra Rumpelezz.  Very famous, from here in Salvador.  Salvador is the third largest city in Brazil, behind Rio de Janero and one other, I think Sao Paulo or Brazilia, can’t remember.  All of the musical groups have a full compliment of horns.  This one was like a jazz big band.  Four trombones, four trumpets, five saxes, a tuba, and five drummers.  The drummers are the focus of the band, front and center, with all of the horns around them, behind and on the sides.  The drummers wore all white with the horns in colors.  Three of the drummers played what looked like graduated sizes of congas.  The other two played timbales or other drums with mallets and sticks.  Much of the time, the conga players had in their right hand, a long flexible stick that looked like a switch or a stiff whip.  They used it as a contrasting sound to their other hand.  The leader of this band plays the largest conga.  He is regarded as a high authority on the traditional drumming and the spiritual meanings of the beats which are a combination of African, Cuban, and Spanish.  His status in this regard is where music and religion mix in this country.  In all of Brazil, he is the most famous and respected Brazilian drummer.  All of the players had mad skills on their instruments.  There were many solos like a jazz band.  Many times, when they started a song, it elicited a response of recognition from the crowd.  There was much dancing throughout the crowd.  These people love to dance, but not the free style dance that Americans do.  It was all dance steps being performed in a traditional way, barefoot in the sand.  Salsa, samba etc.  I learned all of this information from Conner (sp?), the irish gentleman who made ALL of the arrangements for this trip.  For a long while, I was talking with Conner and John, another man from Ireland, about these historical facts about the music in Brazil, where they have both lived for many years.  What a melting pot.  There is not a certain look that Brazilians have.  Looking at the people, I could have been in Chicago, or New York, or Sacramento.  Many of them would not be noticed in Geneseo.  Except I can’t understand a word they’re saying and they can’t understand me.  As I anticipated, me communicating with them is the most difficult adventure.  I’m pitiful.  So I smile a lot to encourage their patience with me.

I have to go because we are leaving for a performance at the Danneman Cultural Center.  I still have to tell you about the other band from Cuba, Buenna Vista, and the cameras in the water, and the girl carrying the fire pot, and the salsa and a couple of other things from last night.  Oh, and the food!  It’s all about eating.  So much to tell, so little time.  Keep in touch!

Scherer out.